I’m sorry to report that a seemingly-simple tomato pie has resulted in a thousand word-plus essay, and of that, only about a third of it is the actual recipe.
An online friend, Laurilyn, gave me a recipe for a tomato pie she attributed to Diana Gage’s husband’s ex-girlfriend’s mother—this probably means no more to you than it did to me, but I like the story behind a recipe, especially when it demonstrates that while relationships may end, good recipes live on.
When I read the recipe I had one of those flashes of memory that are hazy at best. I was convinced James Beard, one of the great American food writers—who it seems these days is a mere footnote in the cookbooks of other food writers—made a tomato pie. My online searches resulted in numerous variations of the pie, some of them noting the similarity to one featured in a James Beard cookbook.
I can’t be sure if it originated with him or not but I lean toward believing it did: He was very fond of cheese, often used mayonnaise as a binding agent, and was known for his biscuits—the crust of this pie is made of biscuit dough rather than pastry.
The recipes varied greatly: Some used zucchini or corn along with the tomatoes; a few combined the mayonnaise with the cheese, while others layered the ingredients; the crust alternated between pastry, home-made biscuits, and a biscuit mix; and finally, many had a wonderful story to go along with them about how the recipe was invented by one of their relatives.
I’m afraid most of our grandmothers lied their aprons off, as I have seen many “secret family recipes” that are straight out of “The Joy of Cooking” and “Fannie Farmer,” including my great-grandmother’s poundcake (that pinch of mace is a dead giveaway, Rose Perry).
When I began my first attempt I had a major prejudice to overcome—my dislike of any cooked dish which contains mayonnaise. I always find no matter how good the recipe may be, the slightly-sweet, slightly-oily character of commercial mayonnaise lurks behind every bite.
Laurilyn suggested using yogurt as a substitute and I decided to begin with a combination of the two. Even cut by half I found it too “mayonnaise-y” for me, so I tried using all yogurt the next go-round and ended up with a watery pie. I attribute this to my having used very juicy Heirloom-type tomatoes rather than meatier plum or beefsteak tomatoes. For my third attempt, I used yogurt with two egg yolks thrown in as added insurance; this one worked for me.
I tried different crusts as well. The first time I made it I had no Bisquick on hand and made my own dough. The next time, I used Bisquick and was less pleased; it over-browned during baking and tasted like an overcooked biscuit.
It took me a while but I realized the error was in the baking dish I used—a dark-glazed pottery pie plate, a pan that really encourages browning. Bisquick being made of vegetable shortening—as opposed to a biscuit dough made with butter, which contains water in the form of milk solids—browns much quicker so I should have been using glass (which is what most of the recipes indicated, but I don’t have a glass pie plate). So if you opt for Bisquick, you’re best to stay away from metal or pottery pans with a dark finish.
Are you still with me? I hope so because I think we’ve reached the home stretch. You can use any tomatoes you like, but be sure they are not overly ripe or you’ll have a wet pie, and if you like the sweet-tart nature of green tomatoes, by all means give them a try. Laurilyn suggested it to me and I was especially pleased with that version.
The cheese is entirely up to personal preference—I used white cheddar in every pie I made, used a portion of jack cheese in one, and added some leftover goat cheese in the other two (it’s best with ripe tomatoes as its tanginess and the tartness of the green tomatoes were too much of the same flavor). Vary the herbs as you wish; I made use of what I manage to keep alive in pots outside the back door.
And now, at long last, the recipe.
Yet Another Tomato Pie
For a super-quick crust:
2 cups Bisquick baking mix
½ cup cold milk
Combine the baking mix and milk in a small bowl and mix to create a workable dough.
For a fairly-quick crust:
1 ½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold and cut into small pieces
½ cup cold milk, approximately
Combine the dry ingredients in a small bowl and mix to combine; add the butter and cut it in with your fingers until the mixture looks like cornmeal. Mix in just enough milk to make a workable dough.
To line the pan:
Press the dough evenly into the bottom and up the sides of a 9- to 10-inch glass pie plate. You can also roll out the dough between two sheets of plastic wrap; I actually found this easier since I am not good at pressing evenly (I never stayed in the lines either). Roll it into to a 12-inch circle, lift off the top sheet of plastic and invert the dough over the pan, remove the other sheet of plastic, and press the dough into the pan. Crimp the edge and trim away any overhanging dough.
For the pie:
1 ½ to 2 pounds tomatoes, peeled and sliced ¼-inch thick
¼ cup snipped chives or ½ cup sliced green onions
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 or more tablespoons fresh herbs such as basil, dill, parsley, mint, or a combination
¾ cup plain yogurt combined with 2 egg yolks, or 1 cup mayonnaise
2 cups (about 7 ounces) grated cheese, such as white cheddar
Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Cover the bottom of the crust with a layer of tomatoes; sprinkle with salt, pepper, and half of the chives (or onions) and herbs. Repeat the process. Eat any tomato slices that do not fit.
Combine about half the cheese with the yogurt mixture and spread over the tomatoes; sprinkle the remaining cheese over the top. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until the crust is golden and the filling looks like it is more solid than liquid—it will set up further as it cools.
It should cool for a half hour prior to serving, and it can be cooled even longer and served at room temperature.
2 Comments
October 17, 2008 at 1:22 am
Wow! This one was fun to read (and not just because I got to see my name in it a couple of times). I am glad the green tomato variation was tasty, and thanks for all of the other tips and variations. I have just a few tomatoes left (first frost is imminent), so will have to try it again son. I might even try to make my own crust next time. Thanks.
October 17, 2008 at 1:22 am
I meant “soon,” not “son.” That sounds a little condescending, not to mention like I am old or something, you whippersnapper.