Here in California we are experiencing a late-winter full of contradiction. One day may be seventy degrees and sunny with people calling in sick so they can go to the beach, and the next it may be pouring buckets and chilly enough that you are digging in drawers for the long underwear.
As confusing as it is to us, it is more so to the things that grow in dirt—my coral bells are forming flower stocks, the pots of thyme and sage are beginning to show signs of life, and I found rhubarb in the market. I have no idea what this means for the spring crop of rhubarb—will it just keep producing, or does this mean by Easter it will be gone?—so I figured, even at four dollars a pound, I better make use of some now.
I chose this recipe because it requires just a pound of rhubarb (which is economical) and also thinking that for those new to rhubarb, a recipe that features it as a flavoring rather than the bulk of the dish might be a good way to try it out.
This recipe appeared in Gourmet magazine, a trusted source for me, and I have changed very little. The original cake was flavored with ground anise seed which I replaced with cardamom, knowing that anise is not universally loved. Aside from that, my only change was the vessel in which I baked it. It was meant to be made in a 10-inch cast iron skillet, a pan I do not happen to own.
I use a 10-inch non-stick skillet with sloping edges which works admirably; you could also use a cake pan if you simply do not have a skillet that fits the bill. Pre-heat the oven, place the cake pan with the butter in it into the oven, melt it, add the sugar and proceed as directed. As added insurance if you are doing it this way, I suggest you butter the sides of the pan, once it is cool, before you add the cake batter.
Rhubarb Upside-Down Cake
The Topping
1/2 stick (4 tablespoons) unsalted butter
Generous 3/4 cup light brown sugar, packed
1 to 1 1/4 pounds rhubarb, rinsed and trimmed of any leaves (poisonous) and wilted pieces
The Cake
1 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom or anise seed (you could also use ginger and nutmeg, either singly or in combination- go easy on the nutmeg as it can overwhelm)
1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2/3 cup sugar
2 large eggs
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 cup buttermilk or yogurt, given a good shake or stir
1/4 milk
In a 10-inch skillet, either well-seasoned cast iron or non-stick, melt the butter over medium heat on top of the stove. When the foaming begins to subside, lower the heat and sprinkle the brown sugar as evenly as you can over the butter. Allow it to stand undisturbed for 3 minutes; all the sugar will not melt. Remove from heat and set aside while you cut the rhubarb into 1-inch pieces . Place the rhubarb, rounded-side down, all over the bottom of the skillet, arranging in concentric circles, or however you like.
Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Combine all the dry ingredients for the cake in a medium bowl and whisk to combine. Beat the butter and sugar with a mixer until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well and scraping the sides to be sure all is combined; add the vanilla. On low speed, add the flour mixture and the milk and buttermilk, alternately, starting and ending with the dry ingredients. It need only be mixed to combine; do not over-beat it.
The batter will be thick but do your best to pour it over the rhubarb, then spread it gently to cover. You want to get it fairly even, but smoothing it is not neccesary, and you don’t want to move the rhubarb around. Bake for approximately 45 minutes, or until a cake tester inserted is clean. Check after 30 minutes and if the top is already golden brown, cover loosely with foil.
Remove the cake from the oven and cool on a rack for fifteen minutes. Place a serving plate over the skillet and carefully (use a kitchen towel as it will still be hot) flip them both over. Remove the pan and admire your handy work. Cool until just warm before serving. I think the texture of the cake is at its best the first day—springy and sponge-like—but it will keep under refrigeration for a few days.
Serves 8
Note: My cooling racks are stored in a cupboard that is not located in my kitchen, under a bunch of stuff I rarely use, so I usually grab a 28-ounce can of tomatoes from the pantry, place it on the counter, and stick the cake pan right on top. The air circulates around the pan and cools it just as well; just be sure you don’t bump it with your elbow while filling the tea kettle (no, that is not hypothetical).
