Falafel Me

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I have been wanting to make falafel for a while.  There are a few restaurants nearby that offer it, so I don’t have to make them myself, but at a dollar a piece I thought I could make them cheaper.  I did not do the math (I don’t bother math, it doesn’t bother me), but the garbanzos cost less than a dollar, the parsley and spices (based on the quantity used) were about the same, and the amount of oil I used was two to three dollars worth; it was definitely cheaper. 

The recipe I used is that of Mark Bittman, and the majority of the garnishes I added to my falafel sandwich were inspired by one Dorie Greenspan ate in Paris and glowingly spoke about on her blog.   If you have no interest in making your own falafel—I can’t say I blame you—you could just buy some and still make a great-big, sloppy sandwich like I did.

I think this would be great for a party, with bowls all set up for people to create their own sandwich. If you get bored with summer barbecuing, this might fit the bill.  And you could always grill a leg of lamb and offer that, too, for a whole other sandwich.

In the recipe, Bittman states that it is essential not to add water to the mixture when it is ground unless absolutely necessary, and even then only a tablespoon or less. This ain’t no joke— too much liquid and the falafel will likely not hold together, and even if they do, they will still be raw at the center when the outside is fully browned. 

I used far less cumin than he suggests, but other than that I followed the recipe to the letter.

Falafel Sandwich

The Falafel
First, keep the amount of water you use when grinding the beans to an absolute minimum. More water makes grinding easier, but it also virtually guarantees that the batter will fall apart when it hits the hot oil. If this happens, bind the remaining mixture by stirring in a little flour.

The second essential step is to get the oil hot enough: 350 degrees or a little higher. If you don’t have a thermometer, just wait until the oil shimmers and then add a pinch of the batter. When it sizzles immediately, sinks about halfway to the bottom, then rises to the top, the oil is ready. If it sinks and stays down, the oil is too cold; if it doesn’t sink at all, the oil is too hot.

1 3/4 cup dried chickpeas
2 cloves garlic, lightly crushed
1 small onion, quartered
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 tablespoon ground cumin
Scant teaspoon cayenne, or to taste
1 cup chopped parsley or cilantro leaves
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Neutral oil, like grapeseed or corn, for frying

Put the beans in a large bowl and cover with water by 3 or 4 inches; they will triple in volume. Soak for 24 hours, adding water if needed to keep beans submerged.

Drain beans well (reserve soaking water) and transfer to a food processor. Add remaining ingredients except oil; pulse until minced but not pureed, scraping sides of bowl down; add soaking water if necessary to allow machine to do its work, but no more than 1 or 2 tablespoons. Keep pulsing until mixture comes together. Taste, adding salt, pepper, cayenne or lemon juice to taste.

Put the oil in a large, deep saucepan to a depth of at least 2 inches; more is better. The narrower the saucepan the less oil you need, but the more oil you use the more patties you can cook at a time. Turn heat to medium-high and heat oil to about 350 degrees (a pinch of batter will sizzle immediately).

Scoop heaping tablespoons of batter and shape into balls or small patties. Fry in batches, without crowding, until nicely browned, turning as necessary; total cooking time will be less than 5 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Makes about two dozen falafel, serving six to eight well

Tahini Sauce
1 cup yogurt
2 to 4 tablespoons Tahini (sesame seed paste), or to taste
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Chopped, fresh parsley, mint or cilantro, if desired

Combine the ingredients and taste for seasoning, adding more tahini if you think it needs it. Chill in a covered container for up to a week.

Makes 1 1/4 cups.

Hummus
4 garlic cloves, peeled
1/2 teaspoon of salt
2 15-oz cans of garbanzo beans (chickpeas), drained and rinsed
1/4 cup, or more, tahini
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 cup olive oil
Water, as needed

Toss the garlic and salt in a food processor and process until chopped. Add the garbanzo beans, tahini, lemon juice and oil; process until fairly smooth, stopping and scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed, adding a bit of water if necessary. Taste and add more salt, tahini, or lemon juice as desired.

Will keep in a covered container in the refrigerator for several days (though the garlic can get stronger tasting after a few).

Makes about 3 cups

Oil-Soaked Eggplant
1 medium eggplant, cut in 1-inch chunks
Salt
Olive oil

Toss the eggplant with a light sprinkling of salt and place in a colander; place a heavy plate on top and let stand an hour or two. Pat the eggplant dry.

Heat a couple tablespoons olive oil in a skillet over medium heat and add eggplant. Toss to coat it with the oil and cook, stirring until the eggplant is almost tender and has taken on some color in places. Cool.

Place the eggplant in a container and add a few generous glugs of olive oil, cover and toss to coat it all. Let stand at room temperature for a couple of hours before using. You can also keep it in the refrigerator for several days before using; warm gently before serving.

Makes about 2 cups eggplant

Pickled Red Onions
1 cup red wine vinegar
1/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon peppercorns
Big pinch of salt
2 small red onions, sliced into rings

Heat the vinegar, sugar, pepper and salt in a saucepan until boiling; add onions and stir to combine. Remove from heat and let stand until cool. Transfer to a covered container and keep chilled up to two weeks.

Makes about 1 1/2 cups

To Serve
Pitas, or other pocket bread
Shredded cabbage
Sliced cucumbers
Asian or Middle Eastern chile sauce
Cilantro leaves

Wrap the pitas in a barely-damp towel, then foil, and place in a 275 degree oven for about ten minutes to warm them.  Spoon some hummus into the pita, top with falafel, and start adding things to your heart’s content.

Eat with a nice, thick cloth napkin nearby.

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Filed under Middle Eastern, sandwiches, snacks, vegetables